Feature Review:

Reactions to Cosmetics

Vincent St Aubyn Crump ? August 2004

A cosmetic is legally defined as a product that enhances appearance, aids in personal hygiene, and does not affect the structure or function of the skin. Therefore, cosmetic products contain no active drug ingredient. Sometimes the division of cosmetics and over-the-counter drugs is not always clear, for example the recent hair regrowth treatment, topical minoxidil (Regaine / Headway), which has been shown to cause allergic contact dermatitis of the scalp.

Cosmetics can be broadly divided into the following groups:
" Decorative products e.g. make-up
" Nail care products e.g. varnishes and removers
" Skin care products e.g. moisturizers
" Soaps and bath additives
" Shaving products e.g. foams, aftershave lotions
" Oral Hygiene products e.g. toothpaste and mouthwashes
" Hair Products e.g. shampoo, dyes and regrowth treatments
" Sun Protection products
" Feminine Hygiene products
" Fragrances e.g. perfumes and colognes
" Deodorants & Antiperspirants Technically because they reduce or decrease sweating, which affect the function of the skin, they should be considered drugs

It can be seen, therefore, that cosmetics are an important part of our daily life. It is estimated that the average adult uses at least 7 different skin care products each day, so its not surprising that reactions to these products are very common. Reactions can be seen after the first application or after years of use.

In New Zealand, like the rest of the developed world, there is a trend towards using "natural products", with the misconception that natural products are "healthier" and cause fewer reactions than artificial products. This myth is debunked when people are reminded that most allergens are "natural proteins.

Misleading Terms in Cosmetics Labeling

Manufacturers of cosmetics use various terms to sell their products to allergy-prone people. In NZ there are no standards that govern the use of these terms. Some of the terms misused include:

" Hypoallergenic usually means that the manufacturer believes that this product is less likely to cause an allergic reaction than others. There is no requirement to substantiate their claim.

" Fragrance free or unscented does not guarantee that the products do not contain chemicals. They simply imply that they have no perceptible odour.

" Natural implies that the ingredients are extracted directly from plants or animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically. There are an increasing number of natural ingredients causing allergies.

Cosmetics Legislation

Unlike drugs, cosmetics do not undergo governmental approval before marketing. The cosmetic industry is primarily self-regulated (by The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association).

Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA)

CTFA represents the industrys interests at the local, state, national, and international levels, promoting voluntary industry self-regulation and reasonable governmental requirements that support the health and safety of consumers.

CTFA has approximately 600 member companies. Active members are manufacturers and distributors of finished products. Associate members are suppliers of ingredients, raw materials, packaging, and other services used in the production and marketing of finished products, as well as consumer and trade publications.

CTFA also supports the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), a program it helped establish in 1976 which assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics in an unbiased, independent forum with an expert panel comprised of world-renowned physicians and scientists.

Others issues discussed in the article include:

" Cosmetic regulations in New Zealand
" Prevalence of cosmetic allergy
" Contact Urticaria and Anaphylaxis to cosmetics
" Systemic Anaphylactic reactions to hair dye
" Cosmetic Intolerance Syndrome
" Contact Dermatitis
" Common allergens in cosmetics and skin care products that cause contact dermatitis
" Paraphenylenediamine (PPD) Hair Dye Allergy
" Cosmetics with herbal ingredients
" Diagnosis of cosmetic reactions

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